A critical review of cellulase bio-polishing of yarn-dyed cotton knitted fabrics: mechanistic effects on surface hairiness, pilling kinetics, reactive dye migration, and structural performance
Bashir Ahmed, Md Ahshan Habib, Md Asfikur Rahman, Al-Khalid Kheal
Received: October 28, 2026 | Published: November 10, 2026
Citation: Ahmed B, Habib A, Rahman A, et al. A critical review of cellulase bio-polishing of yarn-dyed cotton knitted fabrics: mechanistic effects on surface hairiness, pilling kinetics, reactive dye migration, and structural performance. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2026;12(6):333-342. DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2026.12.00480
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This critical narrative review synthesizes the physicochemical and tribological mechanisms governing cellulase bio-polishing of yarn-dyed cotton weft-knitted fabrics, examining the coupled relationships among surface refinement, multi-color stability, and biaxial mechanical integrity. While yarn-dyed cotton weft knits provide multidirectional extensibility, thermo-physiological comfort, and sharp chromatic definition across feeder stripes, checks, and jacquards, their open curvilinear loop geometry and low-twist staple yarn construction render them susceptible to protruding microfibrils (hairiness) and tribological pilling. Cellulase bio-polishing, using synergistic endoglucanases (EC 3.2.1.4), cellobiohydrolases (EC 3.2.1.91), and β-glucosidases (EC 3.2.1.21) coupled with hydrodynamic shear, selectively hydrolyzes β-1,4-glycosidic linkages within sterically accessible amorphous domains, permanently excising surface fuzz. In multicolored yarn-dyed structures, however, wet-finishing optimization is uniquely constrained by aqueous color migration, wherein substantively bound hydrolyzed reactive dyes and enzymatically cleaved dyed cello-oligosaccharides desorb from dark donor courses and redeposit onto adjacent bleached white or pastel loops. Exceeding critical operational thresholds induces secondary cell-wall erosion, excessive mass per unit area (GSM) loss, multidirectional diaphragm bursting-strength reduction, relaxation shrinkage, perceptible shade drift (ΔE00), and white-stripe cross-staining. Finally, we establish constrained multi-response optimization frameworks that integrate Response Surface Methodology (RSM), desirability functions, standardized micro-aperture spectrophotometry, and industrial jet hydrodynamic scale-up for sustainable, right-first-time wet processing.
Keywords: weft-knitted fabric, cellulase bio-polishing, pilling kinetics, reactive dye desorption, cross-staining, multi-response optimization